As I drove through the winding roads of the Margaux appellation, anticipation built with every turn. Finally, Château Kirwan came into view, and I was immediately captivated by the grandeur of the chateau and the serene beauty of its gardens. Bathed in the soft light of the Bordeaux countryside, the estate exuded a timeless charm that hinted at the rich history and tradition waiting to be explored. My guided tour and tasting at Château Kirwan promised not just a journey through its celebrated wines but an immersive experience into the very essence of living in the moment.
Château Kirwan traces its origins back to the mid-18th century. The estate's rich history began with an Irishman named Mark Kirwan, a visionary heir hailing from Galway, a bustling trading port in the west of Ireland. Mark Kirwan was part of the renowned "wine geese," a group of Irish merchants who migrated to France and left an indelible mark on its vineyards. Kirwan's journey into Bordeaux's winemaking legacy started with his marriage to the daughter of Sir John Collingwood, the owner of a prestigious estate then known as Domaine de Lasalle. Upon acquiring the estate through this union, Mark Kirwan renamed the estate as Château Kirwan. This marked the beginning of his mission to elevate the estate’s reputation, ultimately establishing Château Kirwan as a beacon of quality and excellence in Bordeaux wine production. Under his stewardship, the estate’s wines gained widespread acclaim, setting the foundation for a legacy that would be carefully preserved and enhanced by generations to come. The estate's historical trajectory took a significant upward turn in 1855 when Château Kirwan was ranked at the top of the Médoc’s Third Growths, cementing its status among the elite of Bordeaux.
The mid-19th century also saw the influence of Camille Godard, a pivotal figure in Bordeaux’s history, who left a lasting imprint on Château Kirwan. A passionate botanist and lover of architecture, Godard transformed the estate by restoring the chateau building and designing its majestic grounds. His vision included a diverse layout of gardens that continues to enchant visitors today. The middle garden is laid out in a classic French style, characterised by its straight, formal lines. To the left, the English-style garden offers a more expansive and informal look, while to the right, the Rosarium adds a vibrant touch with its array of blooming roses. Each garden reflects Godard’s ability to blend artistry with nature, endowing Château Kirwan with a timeless charm.
In 1926, Château Kirwan entered a new era under the ownership of the Schÿler family, a name long associated with Bordeaux’s wine trade. The Schÿler family, who originated from Hamburg, Germany and had settled in Bordeaux since 1739, were already established as one of the city’s oldest family-owned négociant houses under the name Schröder & Schÿler. Their connection to Château Kirwan began even earlier, in 1902, when Armand Schÿler, a fifth-generation family member, secured future grape harvests from the estate through a "subscription" agreement. By 1926, the family had fully acquired Château Kirwan, embarking on a mission to revitalise the estate and unlock its full potential.
The Schÿler family's dedication to long-term stewardship saw the implementation of key initiatives, including a vineyard replanting program in the 1960s led by Jean-Henri Schÿler, a member of the seventh generation. Through their unwavering commitment to excellence, the Schÿler family has ensured that Château Kirwan remains a family-managed estate, with each generation building on the legacy of their predecessors.
Today, Château Kirwan stands as a testament to the enduring pursuit of quality and the preservation of tradition. The estate’s soul, carefully nurtured over centuries, continues to thrive under the stewardship of the Schÿler family, co-owned by siblings Sophie, Yann, and Nathalie Schÿler Together, they ensure that the precious savoir-faire of their ancestors is passed down from one generation to the next. This dedication to excellence, woven through the fabric of Château Kirwan’s history, is reflected in each vintage, celebrating the magic of the moment in every bottle.
My guided tour began with a stroll at the vineyard. Nestled on the Cantenac plateau, the estate's 37 hectares of vineyards are perched at the heart of the Margaux appellation, one of Bordeaux's most revered wine regions. From the vineyard’s highest point, known as the "Moulin Robert" plot, which rises 19 meters above sea level, the vines gaze out over the surrounding landscape, drawing strength and character from the soil beneath. The terroir is a complex tapestry woven from the emblematic soil types of Margaux. The vineyard’s foundation lies in Pyrenean gravel, a mineral-rich sediment that has been carried and deposited over millennia, intermixed with varying layers of clay. These distinct soil compositions create a rich diversity within the vineyard, providing the perfect conditions for producing wines of remarkable depth and elegance.
Recognising the profound potential of this terroir, Philippe Delfaut, Kirwan's General Manager and winemaker since 2007, embarked on a meticulous exploration of the estate's soils. An expert in Margaux terroir, Delfaut spearheaded a detailed soil mapping project soon after his arrival at Château Kirwan. This in-depth study revealed an astonishing variety of 29 different soil types within the estate, each with its unique characteristics. Delfaut's keen understanding of these diverse soils allowed him to categorise them into gravel, clay and sand, enabling a more precise approach to viticulture. With this knowledge, he introduced a tailor-made vine-growing strategy, meticulously adapting the cultivation practices in each plot to suit its specific terroir. From the selection of vine varieties and rootstocks to the timing of harvests, every aspect of vineyard management is carefully aligned with the nuances of the soil. This individualised method is the cornerstone of Château Kirwan’s viticultural philosophy. The result is a collection of wines that embody the essence of Château Kirwan’s terroir, each bottle a reflection of the land's natural richness and the meticulous care invested in its cultivation. This deep respect for the soil and the environment, coupled with a commitment to precision and excellence, is what defines the unique style and enduring quality of Château Kirwan’s wines.
Château Kirwan’s vineyards are a living testament to both tradition and innovation, carefully balancing the classic grape varieties of Bordeaux with forward-thinking viticultural practices. The estate’s 37 hectares are predominantly planted with four main grape varieties: 47% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc and 8% Petit Verdot. These varieties form the backbone of Château Kirwan’s wines, each contributing its unique character to the blend.
I managed to have a chat with the current Technical Director, Hervé Diez, who shared insights into Château Kirwan’s ongoing innovations. The estate has recently expanded its varietal portfolio to include lesser-known and experimental grape varieties. Starting in 2016, the estate introduced Carmenère to its vineyards, a bold move led by the then-technical director. This reintroduction of Carmenère, a grape that once thrived in Bordeaux before being largely forgotten, reflects Kirwan’s commitment to exploring the full potential of its terroir. Continuing this pioneering spirit, a new plot of Chardonnay was planted in 2020. This marks a significant departure from the estate’s traditional focus on red varietals, with the first production of Chardonnay currently ageing in barrels, anticipated to debut. In addition, Château Kirwan is also participating in efforts to preserve Bordeaux’s viticultural heritage while preparing for the challenges posed by climate change. In 2021, the estate planted a new plot of Castets, a nearly extinct black-skinned grape variety that has recently been re-approved for cultivation in Bordeaux. Castets is one of six new varieties that have been introduced to the region to enhance resilience against the changing climate, showcasing Château Kirwan’s proactive approach to sustainable viticulture.
The vines at Château Kirwan are, on average, 35 years old, with some reaching up to 65 years before being uprooted to make way for replanting. This careful management ensures that the vineyards remain productive and healthy over the long term. As part of this process, the estate consistently leaves 2 hectares of land fallow, allowing the soil to rest for 2 to 3 years before replanting. After new vines are planted, another 3 years are allowed to pass before the grapes can be used in production, ensuring that the vines are fully established and capable of producing high-quality fruit.
The estate is deeply committed to eco-responsible vine-growing, embracing a pragmatic approach that prioritises organic farming while adapting to the unique conditions of each vintage. This dedication to sustainability has earned the estate HVE (High Environmental Value) Level 3 certification in 2017 and compliance with the ISO 14001 norm through the SME (Environmental Management System) since 2013, introduced by the Interprofessional Wine Council. In the vineyards, the topsoils are meticulously tilled mechanically, and cover crops are seeded between the rows to enhance soil health and biodiversity. The estate has long banned the use of insecticides, herbicides, and CMR (carcinogenic, mutagenic, and reprotoxic) products, reflecting its ongoing commitment to the environment.
Château Kirwan's stewardship extends beyond the vineyards, as the estate benefits from its surrounding woodlands and the expansive two hectares of grounds that have been integral to its landscape since its creation. Today, the estate is fully dedicated to preserving its terroir and sustainably managing all the resources that define its identity. Environmental indicators are carefully monitored daily, with a focus on reducing energy consumption (water, electricity, and fuel) and minimising the use of spray treatments, both in dosage and frequency. Moreover, the estate places a strong emphasis on the social, health, safety, and economic impact of its operations, considering not only the well-being of its personnel but also the surrounding community and consumers. Through these efforts, Château Kirwan continues to uphold its legacy while safeguarding the future of its environment and people.
The grape harvest at Château Kirwan is the joyful culmination of the vineyard’s year-long efforts, a time when the fruits of meticulous care and dedication are finally brought to the winery. The order of grape-picking is carefully planned based on the unique soil characteristics of each plot, recognising that each type of soil brings its own advantages to the vines. Gravel soils, with their fast-draining properties, are ideal for managing heavy rainfall, while clay soils excel in retaining moisture, offering resilience against heat and drought ‒ an increasingly valuable trait in the face of climate change. This strategic approach to harvesting aligns with the estate’s philosophy of maintaining the freshness of fruit flavours and preserving the acidity potential in the grapes. The ultimate goal is to produce balanced wines that harmonise alcohol levels with tannins, ensuring that each bottle reflects the true essence of the grapes and the exceptional terroir from which they were born. During the harvest, the estate staff usually share lunch together, fostering a close and strong bond. The camaraderie extends to a celebratory party at the end of the harvest, marking the end of the season with a festive gathering that reinforces their unity and shared commitment to their craft. At Château Kirwan, great wines are seen as mirrors of their grapes, capturing the quality and character of the soil in every sip.
Next, I visited the winemaking facility, which houses both the vat room and the barrel cellar, where I was immediately captivated by the striking entrance. The door, a remarkable creation by Russian artist Anatoly Stolnikoff and his wife Kinga, is a stunning blend of art and viticulture. Designed to resemble an oversized vine, its leaves have been replaced by words intricately linked to the world of wine. This gigantic stainless steel vine, laser-cut with incredible precision, features words that evoke the essence of Kirwan, the Schÿler family ‒ who have owned the estate since 1926, and the esteemed Margaux appellation. The material used, stainless steel, is strong and powerful, perfectly mirroring the characteristics of Kirwan and Margaux wines. Yet, from afar, it appears delicate, like lace ‒ fine and elegant, much like the wines of Margaux. Remarkably, each word is used only once, with no repetition, making the piece even more unique. As I stood before this artistic vine, I observed how the branches, with their intricate patterns, formed an image of foliage from a distance. But as I stepped closer, the words revealed themselves like the nuanced aromas of a fine wine, each one adding to the rich narrative of Château Kirwan and its deep connection to the timeless art of winemaking.
Upon entering the winemaking facility, my attention was immediately drawn to a painting hanging on the wall, titled The Meal. This oil on canvas, measuring 122 cm in height and 160 cm in length, was painted in 2014 by Chinese artist Chen Xuefei. The artwork, infused with Italian and Dutch Renaissance influences, presents a fascinating paradox. It depicts a scene of business being conducted in China, where contracts are signed over food and alcohol. The composition is rich with narrative tension: the man on the left appears troubled, subtly pouring his wine away under the table, seemingly disagree with the deal. His action is noticed by the man on the right, dressed in a red robe, who casts a side-eye glance. Meanwhile, the man in the middle seems content, perhaps oblivious to the underlying discord, as he speaks animatedly. The painting's style is reminiscent of Caravaggio, with its Chinese subjects bathed in a dramatic play of shadows and light, creating a splendid atmosphere of chiaroscuro that adds depth to the scene. This thought-provoking piece complements the artistic spirit of the facility, blending cultural narratives with the timeless art of winemaking.
Following this artistic introduction, the grapes are meticulously handled upon arrival to the winemaking facility to ensure only the highest quality fruit makes it into the vats. They arrive in crates containing 6-7 kg of grapes each and undergo a rigorous two-stage sorting process. Initially, the grapes are sorted by hand, bunch by bunch, to remove any substandard clusters. They are then fed through a destemmer before undergoing a second, more detailed hand sorting, berry by berry. Approximately 20 buckets of grapes are needed to fill a single vat.
In the vat room, there are 37 tulip-shaped concrete vats, custom-made in Italy, that incorporate advanced technology for gentle vinification. These vats offer numerous advantages, including better extraction of colour, aroma compounds, and tannins, as well as easier and more homogenous pumping over. The concrete vats provide stable temperature control, energy savings, and greater sustainability compared to traditional stainless steel vats, which require significantly more energy. Additionally, the concrete vats are lighter, easier to clean, and uniquely equipped with built-in lighting to assist with the cleaning process ‒ an effort I have never seen at any other estate.
The estate’s commitment to precision is evident in their approach to vinification, as they ferment the grapes from each plot individually ‒ 37 hectares matched by 37 vats. The fermentation process is meticulously controlled at 25°C for 10-15 days, with 2-3 pump-overs per day, followed by 5-10 days of post-fermentation maceration. The estate also employs a vertical press to extract pressed wine, which is then aged separately, ensuring that every aspect of the vinification process is handled with the utmost care and attention to detail.
Then, I visited the barrel cellar, where the environment is meticulously maintained at a constant 13°C to ensure optimal ageing conditions. All the barrels used for ageing are medium toasted, contributing to the distinctive character of the wines. The estate collaborates with ten different coopers, which adds complexity to the blending process. Since 2016, they have also been experimenting with an Austrian cooperage Stockinger, whose fine-grained French oak grown in Austria has brought a remarkable finesse and elegance to the wine. In addition, the wines are fined with egg whites, a gentle method that removes impurities while preserving the tannin and structure of the wine.
The estate is also experimenting with clay amphorae for ageing, though currently, they are only used to age the estate’s Chardonnay, which is yet to debut. The results for red wines have been less satisfactory, largely due to issues with the clay. The initial single cooking process led to leakage, and while a second cooking was applied to address this problem, it resulted in the amphorae becoming too hermetic.
At the end of the guided tour, the tasting session offered a delightful conclusion. I sampled two distinct wines ‒ the second label Charmes de Kirwan 2020 vintage, and the grand vin Château Kirwan 2015 vintage. The Charmes de Kirwan 2020 presented a fruity profile with nice acidity that was well-balanced without being too sharp. Its lighter body and subtle oak influence made it approachable and enjoyable. In contrast, the Château Kirwan 2015 showcased greater complexity. This grand vin displayed a richer fruit character, combined with pronounced oak and tobacco notes. Its ruby colour with a hint of garnet, full-bodied structure, and silky tannins highlighted its focus on finesse and elegance. The 2015 vintage offered a long finish and demonstrated excellent ageing potential, with the ability to develop beautifully over 30-40 years.
At the end of the guided tour and tasting session, I decided to purchase a bottle of Château Kirwan 2020, a vintage that holds special significance for me. To my delight, I had the opportunity to have the bottle signed by two key figures of the estate ‒ Hervé Diez, the Technical Director, and Jérôme Castillo, the Cellar Master. I was thrilled to get their signatures and to pose for a photo with them. Both Hervé and Jérôme were incredibly kind and welcoming, generously sharing insights into the estate and their daily responsibilities. Their warm hospitality made the experience even more memorable, and I left with a cherished bottle and a deeper appreciation for the craft behind Château Kirwan’s exceptional wines.
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