As I arrived at Château La Mission Haut-Brion on a late afternoon, the estate stood bathed in a warm, golden light that seemed to bring its storied past to life. The sun cast long shadows across the vineyards, illuminating the historic stone walls and the iconic wrought iron gate. Walking through this timeless landscape, I could feel the quiet reverence woven into the vines. Here, in the heart of Bordeaux, faith and finesse still come together in each glass, preserving a heritage as enduring as the vineyard itself.
Château La Mission Haut-Brion's rich history traces back to 1540 when Bordeaux merchant Arnaud de Lestonnac acquired the land known as Arregedhuys, which belonged to the family of de Rostaing of the house of de la Tour d'Esquivens. He transformed into a vineyard. This land, destined for greatness, was meticulously cultivated by Lestonnac, who recognised the exceptional quality of the Graves soil and saw its potential for producing fine wine. His efforts established a wine legacy, nurtured by his descendants, and solidified by his marriage to Marie, the sister of Jean de Pontac, founder of the nearby Château Haut-Brion. This alliance marked the beginning of a profound connection between Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, with both estates becoming legendary names in Bordeaux wine.
By 1572, under the stewardship of Arnaud's son, Pierre, the estate was flourishing. Pierre, a prominent juror of Bordeaux, began constructing estate buildings, including a house and winery, laying the groundwork for future expansion. His daughter, Olive de Lestonnac, played a vital role in the estate's legacy through her devotion to religious and charitable causes, a tradition inspired by her aunt, Saint Jeanne de Lestonnac, who founded the Company of Mary Our Lady in 1607. Olive’s dedication to philanthropy and the Catholic Church ultimately led to the transfer of the estate in 1682 to the Lazarists of Bordeaux, a congregation also known as the Priests of the Mission. Thus, the estate was renamed as La Mission Haut-Brion. The priests expanded the vineyard, dedicating themselves to both winemaking and spiritual service.
Under the Lazarist priests, the estate's reputation grew, especially after they constructed the chapel of Notre-Dame d'Aubrion in 1698, later known as Notre-Dame de la Mission. Their expertise and dedication greatly enhanced the vineyard's quality, drawing the attention of influential figures. A statement by the Congrégation de la Mission, drawn up on 13 February 1729, lists eight priests, four brothers and five servants. At the same time, the estate produced 24 barrels of wine, equivalent to 21.6 hectolitres. In 1755, Marshal Louis Armand de Vignerot du Plessis, Duke of Richelieu, was appointed Governor of Guyenne. He famously praised La Mission Haut-Brion, ensuring it became a fixture at the table of the Governor of Guyenne. The wine gained significant acclaim among French nobility and beyond, with Marshal Richelieu famously remarking, “If God forbade drinking, would he have made this wine so good?”
The French Revolution brought a period of upheaval, with the estate seized and auctioned as a national asset in 1792. Martial-Victor Vaillant, a Bordeaux industrialist, acquired the estate, which was then 25 hectares of highly valued vineyard. In 1821, Célestin Coudrin-Chiapella, an American merchant of French descent, purchased the property with the intention of retiring to Bordeaux, where he was already working as a merchant and manager of several properties, including Château Cos d'Estournel. His work on the estate included installing the ornate wrought iron gate that remains an iconic feature today, symbolising enduring Franco-American connections. Under his ownership, La Mission Haut-Brion expanded its reputation, winning a gold medal at the 1862 London World’s Fair and establishing itself as a favourite in both Europe and America.
In 1884, Jérôme Chiapella sold the estate to the Établissements Duval of Paris. At that time, Château La Mission Haut-Brion enjoyed a superb reputation in France, England and the United States. In 1922, one notes that for the 1918 vintage, Château Lafite and Château Margaux were selling at 8 francs a bottle, Château Latour for 9 francs and Château La Mission for 10 francs. Only Château Haut-Brion went for more, at 14 francs a bottle.
In 1919, the Woltner family ushered the estate into the modern age. Frédéric Otto Woltner and his sons revolutionised winemaking at La Mission Haut-Brion by installing enamelled steel vats in 1926, which allowed for precise temperature control during fermentation. They purchased wrought iron archways made in Toledo, Spain, similar in style to the gate installed by the Chiapellas, and positioned them along the façade of the castle. The family also emphasised the property’s historical significance, adorning it with religious artefacts in homage to its Lazarist past. The Woltners collected holy water fonts of all sizes and shapes, which they used to decorate the walls of the castle and the chapel. The chapel was again blessed and consecrated, and sometimes used for religious services. The Woltners’ commitment to innovation and tradition led to extraordinary vintages and solidified the estate’s reputation globally. After Frédéric’s death in 1933, his son Henri Woltner continued this legacy, managing the estate until his own death in 1974.
In 1983, the estate was acquired by Domaine Clarence Dillon S.A., a company dedicated to restoring its former glory. The President of the company was Joan Dillon, the Duchess of Mouchy, daughter of C. Douglas Dillon, who had previously served as U.S. Ambassador to France and Secretary of the Treasury under President Kennedy. Her son, H.R.H. Prince Robert of Luxembourg, joined the management team in 1997. He has succeeded his mother and became President of Domaine Clarence Dillon at the end of July in 2008.
The Dillon family embarked on extensive renovations, from installing a modern vat room for the 1987 vintage to restoring the chapel, cellars and tasting rooms. In 2007, they paid tribute to the estate’s Lazarist history by building the Grand Chai, an architectural masterpiece designed by H.R.H. Prince Robert of Luxembourg. The Grand Chai was crafted from Frontenac stone and conceived as a “cathedral of wine”. The Dillons further enhanced the estate with a cloister and landscaped gardens, blending history with elegance.
In 2009, Château La Mission Haut-Brion reached new heights when it was listed as a Premier Cru in the revised Bordeaux classification by Liv-Ex, affirming its status as one of the world’s most prestigious wines. Celebrated by critics and collectors alike, the estate continues to be revered for its outstanding quality and consistency. Notable wine critic Robert Parker even remarked on his personal affinity for La Mission Haut-Brion, highlighting its enduring appeal and excellence. Today, the estate stands as a testament to centuries of tradition, innovation and exceptional winemaking.
My guided tour began with a leisurely stroll through the vineyard, where the vines, trained low to the ground, sprawled in neatly tended rows. Unlike the vines of Saint-Émilion that were trained higher, the vines of Château La Mission Haut-Brion are kept close to the earth to harness the reflective warmth from the gravel stones scattered across the soil. This practice, while making harvest more challenging, helps ripen the grapes more consistently by absorbing and radiating heat. The terroir here is complex; patches of sand help drain excess water, while a layer of clay beneath ensures that enough moisture is retained during the dry months, a critical feature since irrigation is prohibited in Bordeaux. The older vines, established deeply in the soil, benefit from less hydric stress, relying on these natural reserves to sustain them through dry spells.
At Château Haut-Brion, 48 hectares are dedicated to red grape varieties, whereas Château La Mission Haut-Brion’s vineyards for red grape varieties cover just 25 hectares. Both estates produce a limited amount of white wine ‒ about 6,000 bottles each per year. Approximately 65% of the vineyard land dedicated to white grape varieties is planted with Sémillon and the remaining 35% with Sauvignon Blanc. This Sémillon-focused approach sets them apart from most Bordeaux châteaux.
As I moved through the rows, my guide explained the estate’s pest control methods. Tiny pheromone tags, scattered among the vines, work as a sexual confusion technique, a way to naturally manage pest populations by disrupting insect mating patterns without the need for chemical intervention. Harvesting here is entirely done by hand, preserving the integrity of each bunch and allowing for an initial selection right in the vineyard. Each year, about 1% of the vineyard is replanted to maintain the vitality and productivity of these historic vines, a gentle rejuvenation that allows Château La Mission Haut-Brion to uphold its tradition of excellence with each passing vintage.
This first pass by skilled pickers is only the beginning of an intensive sorting process, ensuring that only the finest fruit makes it into production. Once harvested, the grapes undergo three more stages of meticulous sorting. First, they pass along a sorting table where trained eyes remove any unsuitable grapes. They are then tested for sugar density in a water-sugar bath. This innovative method, pioneered in Saint-Émilion at the company’s estate ‒ Château Quintus, allows less dense, lower-sugar grapes to float and be discarded. Finally, the grapes are scrutinised by an optical sorter, using technology to precisely select those that meet the estate’s high standards.
Then, I visited the estate’s enchanting chapel, a quiet space where history and artistry meet. The chapel’s stained glass windows, dating back to 1547, are masterpieces of craftsmanship, hand-painted with intricate details that cast a kaleidoscope of light over the room. With the vat room under renovation during my visit, my guide took this serene setting as an opportunity to explain the estate’s innovative fermentation process ‒ a process rooted in history yet continuously evolving. The technical team, shared by both Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion, brings a unified expertise to both estates; only the vineyard parcels distinguish the two, with each parcel contributing its unique terroir to the character of the wines. This seamless integration of talent across both properties underscores their commitment to producing wines that honour their heritage while embracing modern viticulture techniques.
Château Haut-Brion made waves in Bordeaux winemaking in 1961 when it became the first chateau to use stainless steel vats for fermentation. This modern approach was initially met with scepticism; in fact, other chateaux jested that Haut-Brion was making milk instead of wine due to the vats’ origin in the dairy industry. However, these vats soon proved transformative, and today’s high-tech, stainless steel vats at La Mission Haut-Brion offer precision and control unimaginable in earlier eras. Computerised systems now control temperature meticulously and pumps allow for careful pumping over at varying frequencies to enhance flavour extraction.
The fermentation process itself is a delicate balance, lasting from 10 to 20 days depending on the vintage and grape variety. At La Mission Haut-Brion, they use gravity rather than air pressure to gently drain the wine, resulting in a higher yield of free-run wine, known for its smoother, more nuanced flavours and minimising press wine, which has more tannic intensity. After the initial draining, the solids are conveyed to a basement press, where a pneumatic press extracts the remaining juice without compromising quality. The malolactic conversion, which softens the wine’s acidity, spans 2 to 5 weeks depending on the vintage and grape type, adding depth and roundness to the final product.
Interestingly, unlike many chateaux in Bordeaux, La Mission Haut-Brion does not have enough tanks for fermenting each plot individually. Instead, they combine grapes from different plots and blend the wine before it ages, which gives it a distinctive profile early on. They are also unique in that they present a fully blended wine during En Primeur week, while other estates typically showcase their blends only after the ageing process. This commitment to early blending reflects their confidence in the balance and consistency of their wines and it allows tasters to preview the cohesive character of each vintage even before it has matured.
Later, as I stepped into the Grand Chai at Château La Mission Haut-Brion, I felt as though I was entering a sanctuary for wine, a "modern cathedral" where centuries-old methods are meticulously woven into modern winemaking. Here, the estate’s dedication to shaping wines of exceptional quality is palpable. With their own in-house cooper, La Mission Haut-Brion crafts five barrels a day, each toasted to a medium or medium-(-) level, ensuring that the delicate woodiness enhances rather than dominates the wine. Each barrel is used for no more than two vintages before it is sold to regions like Cognac, Armagnac and Rioja, where its influence can live on.
The maturation process at La Mission Haut-Brion is as artful as it is exacting. Only the finest selections of wine are chosen for the blend of Château La Mission Haut-Brion red, where they are matured in oak barrels for 18 to 20 months. This maturation period serves to develop and gently oxygenate the wine, lending it both smoothness and complexity. Each year, the percentage of new barrels is carefully adjusted to match the vintage’s profile, ensuring a harmonious balance where the oak imparts structure without overpowering the wine. The first racking occurs three months after the wine is placed in barrels, followed by racking every three months using an age-old technique called à l’esquive, which minimises disturbance to the wine. This process, guided by the flickering light of a candle, allows the technical team to scrutinise the wine’s clarity, stopping as soon as it appears cloudy.
Adding a touch of tradition and finesse, the red wines undergo fining with freshly whipped egg whites before bottling. Depending on the vintage, three to four egg whites per barrel are used to clarify the wine, adding polish and elegance to the final product. In contrast, the white wines remain unfined, preserving their vibrant purity. Here in the Grand Chai, where every step is executed with care and precision, La Mission Haut-Brion demonstrates an unwavering commitment to crafting wines that are not just refined, but truly unforgettable.
The guided tour concluded with a tasting in the elegant tasting room ‒ Salle du Chapitre, where I sampled the 2017 vintages of Château Haut-Brion and Château La Mission Haut-Brion. Château Haut-Brion 2017 vintage displayed a more austere character, revealing subtle aromas of white tobacco, cedar, and delicate red fruits, enhanced by a distinct oak presence and a hint of tertiary complexity. Its silky tannins added to its graceful structure and, as it opened up over ten minutes, the wine unfolded more layers of nuance. In contrast, Château La Mission Haut-Brion 2017 vintage leaned toward bold, fruit-forward aromas, with rich black fruit and liquorice notes. Its medium-(+) acidity added vibrancy, while its slightly grippy tannins brought a satisfying texture, making it both accessible and robust. Tasting these two remarkable wines side-by-side, each with its own expression of terroir and vintage, was the perfect way to conclude an unforgettable visit.
As I left Château La Mission Haut-Brion, I felt deeply connected to the layers of history, craftsmanship and care that define this extraordinary estate. From the meticulous vineyard practices to the serene chapel and the Grand Chai’s masterful ageing cellar, every element of my visit revealed a dedication to creating wines that honour tradition while embracing innovation. Tasting the estate’s wines was not just a sensory experience but a journey through centuries of passion and expertise, captured in every glass. Château La Mission Haut-Brion’s legacy is truly alive here, a place where past and present meet to shape some of Bordeaux’s most memorable wines.
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