Nestled in the prestigious Saint-Julien appellation, Château Lagrange wowed me at first sight with its stunning architecture. I was excited to discover the unique harmony that defines Château Lagrange’s winemaking excellence. My visit began with a guided tour, where my knowledgeable guide shared the estate’s rich history, offering fascinating insights into its storied past. The origins of Château Lagrange trace back to the Middle Ages, when it comprised two distinct entities: the “Tenure of Pellecahus” to the east and the “Noble House of Lagrange de Monteil” to the west. The union of these estates in the 17th century marked the birth of Lagrange. For almost two centuries, it remained under the stewardship of one family, ensuring its unity and development. Notably, Charles de Branne de Cours managed the estate from 1712 to 1746, during which he, along with his affluent Bordeaux family who also owned Mouton, elevated Lagrange to one of the most beautiful properties in the Médoc. His nephew, Jean-Baptiste Arbouet de la Bernède, continued this legacy, modernising the facilities and constructing an impressive vinification cellar that still stands today.
In 1787, Thomas Jefferson, then the United States ambassador to France, recognised Lagrange’s quality, ranking it as a Third Growth (Troisième Cru) years before its status was confirmed in the 1855 classification. The estate changed hands in 1790 when Jean-Baptiste d’Arbouet sold it to his nephew, Jean-Valère Cabarrus, a distinguished wine merchant. Cabarrus expanded the viticultural activities and constructed the master house in a classical style, setting the stage for Lagrange’s future prosperity. Subsequently, the property was acquired by John Lewis Brown, a family ally.
Lagrange's golden era spanned from 1842 to 1875 under Count Duchâtel, Home Secretary to King Louis Philippe. His innovative approach and collaboration with estate manager Galos led to significant advancements, including the introduction of sulphur to combat powdery mildew and pioneering soil drainage techniques. The estate became a hub of high society, hosting lavish receptions and inspiring numerous artists. The Tuscan-style tower, commissioned by Duchâtel and designed by Italian architect Visconti, was built to help survey the entire property, added a unique elegance to the château. However, following Duchâtel’s death in 1867, the estate faced numerous challenges, including the phylloxera crisis, world wars, fires and economic downturns.
By the time the Japanese family group Suntory acquired Château Lagrange in 1983, the estate had been significantly reduced in size and needed revitalisation. Suntory’s leaders, Keizo Saji and Shinichiro Torii, initiated an extensive renovation project to restore Lagrange’s former grandeur. Under the guidance of oenologist Marcel Ducasse and a dedicated team, they undertook a comprehensive restructuring, investing in both technical advancements and human expertise. Over the next three decades, their efforts bore fruit, rejuvenating the estate’s reputation and quality.
Today, under the leadership of Matthieu Bordes, Château Lagrange continues its pursuit of excellence, producing wines that embody the distinguished and elegant style of Saint-Julien. The estate’s rich history and ongoing commitment to quality ensure that its wines remain unique and celebrated worldwide. Remarkably, the property remains unchanged since its inception, with no new plots added. In a nod to their heritage, the Japanese group Suntory, who owns the estate, has planted a bamboo grove close to the pond as a symbol of their presence and respect for the estate's storied past.
I continued my guided tour with a leisurely stroll through the vineyard to better understand the terroir of Château Lagrange, which spans a total of 157 hectares, with over 118 hectares dedicated to viticulture. Notably, one plot stands out for its impressive elevation—the highest in Saint-Julien at 24 meters above sea level. This plot, planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, features a gentle slope and vines oriented east-west. In close proximity, just 20 meters away on the opposite side, lies another plot also planted with Cabernet Sauvignon, but oriented north-south. This plot has a flatter land, resulting in wines that are less powerful, less concentrated, and exhibit less phenolic maturity. Despite their proximity, the wines from these two plots displayed distinct differences in character. The estate's vineyards stretch across two Gunzian gravel slopes, and the diverse array of 103 individual plots allows for a meticulous approach to viticulture.
The vineyard is planted with 67% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot, using high-density planting techniques that result in around 1 million vines across 118 hectares. The vines are trained using a double cordon system, with between-row spacing of just 1 meter, and the vineyard supports 9,000 to 10,000 vines per hectare. Currently, the planting for Cabernet Sauvignon is set to increase to around 75%, while the planting for Merlot will be reduced. On average, the vines are 40 years old, with the oldest dating back to 1952. Additionally, 11 hectares are dedicated to white grape varieties, comprising 80% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Sauvignon Gris, and 10% Sémillon.
The diversity of Château Lagrange’s terroir is further highlighted by the identification of 17 different soils and sub-soils, enabling a tailored approach to viticulture. This adaptability ensures that each plot's unique character is expressed to its fullest potential, with grape varieties and rootstocks carefully selected to match the specific terroir. Since 1996, the château has monitored these conditions with 17 weather stations. Unfortunately, 2024 has become the rainiest summer on record since their monitoring began. The excessive rainfall has created severe problems with mildew, posing significant challenges for the château’s viticulture.
The estate's commitment to harmony between man and nature has been unwavering over the past 20 years. This dedication is reflected in their environmental practices, which prioritise sustainability and the preservation of resources for future generations. Collaborative efforts with institutions like INRA (National Institute of Agronomical Research) have led to innovative solutions for vineyard management, such as fighting grapeworm. Château Lagrange was a pioneer in Bordeaux for establishing a carbon count and achieving integrated agriculture certification.
Furthermore, biodiversity is actively encouraged around the vineyard plots, with initiatives like planting hedges, introducing sheep to graze the fields, re-introducing bee hives and bird boxes and banning the use of chemical herbicides. Since 2008, 10 hectares have been farmed according to biodynamic principles, whereas 20 hectares are organically managed. A natural grass cover is maintained to promote the underground ecosystem and limit erosion. The estate’s cellars also contribute to resource management with a positive energy balance, thanks to solar panels on the roof. Château Lagrange’s dedication to protecting resources, respecting nature and mindful production methods is evident in every bottle, reflecting the profound commitment of its team. This harmonious blend of tradition, innovation and environmental stewardship ensures that Château Lagrange’s wines continue to captivate and reward connoisseurs worldwide.
Next, I visited the winemaking cellar, which epitomizes the blend of innovation and precision that defines the estate’s approach to viticulture. Upon arrival in the vat room, grapes undergo meticulous sorting, beginning with manual sorting, followed by optical sorting which employs state-of-the-art technology. This dual sorting process ensures only the highest quality grapes proceed to the next stages of winemaking.
Following sorting, the grapes pass through a crusher before being allocated to designated vats. Here, the plot-by-plot approach comes into full play. Château Lagrange boasts 102 stainless steel vats corresponding to its 103 vine plots, allowing for the preservation of each terroir’s unique freshness and flavour profile. From maceration to fermentation, the process is closely monitored with regular vat tastings guiding crucial decisions. The estate's consultant oenologist, Eric Boissenot, along with four in-house oenologists, taste the wines and diligently craft the final blend during the winter following the harvest, ensuring each vintage meets their exacting standards.
In the barrel cellars, tradition and time-honoured skills govern the ageing process. Sixty percent of the barrels are made from new French oak, with each barrel used a maximum of three times before being resold to Suntory for their whisky production. They work exclusively with six coopers, ensuring that all barrels are only medium toasted. To accommodate production, they purchase 700 new barrels every year. Although they have experimented ageing in clay amphorae since 2019, the results have not been satisfactory.
The wine is treated with great care, from precise racking performed traditionally with a dodge and candle to patient and skillful topping up. The wine is fined with egg whites and racked four times a year. It takes several months or even years for the wine to mature fully, allowing time to weave its magic and develop the wine’s full expression. Once ready, the wine embarks on its journey to consumers, facilitated by partner Bordeaux wine merchants, reaching connoisseurs in France and around the world.
Located in the heart of the barrel cellars lies the old vintage cellar ‒ a treasure trove of age-old bottles. The oldest bottle in the library is the 1925 vintage. They reserve 5% of their annual production here. These venerable wines serve as a testament to the heritage and expertise of the winemakers at Lagrange across generations. Notably, 1983 is the last vintage where the bottle features the previous owner Spanish family label before Suntory arrived and changed it to the current label. This historical collection not only highlights the estate's long-standing tradition of excellence but also offers a tangible connection to its storied past, reminding all who visit of the timeless art of winemaking practised at Château Lagrange.
At the end of the guided tour, I was treated to a delightful tasting session. This was a wonderful opportunity to experience the fruits of Château Lagrange's meticulous winemaking process firsthand. I had the chance to taste five exquisite wines, each offering a unique glimpse into the estate's diverse range.
The session started with two whites: Les Fleurs du Lac 2021 vintage and Les Arums de Lagrange 2023 vintage. Les Fleurs du Lac 2021, composed of 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Sauvignon Gris, was rounder and more powerful, with tropical fruit, white peach, and apricot aromas. In contrast, Les Arums de Lagrange 2023, made from 74% Sauvignon Blanc, 15% Sémillon, and 11% Sauvignon Gris, was fresh and vibrant, with a crisp acidity that danced on the palate. Reflecting the estate's dedication to crafting elegant white wines, all white wines undergo 100% vinification in barrels, not stainless steel, with no bâtonnage, using only free-run juice.
Next, I tasted the reds, beginning with Pagus de Lagrange 2019 vintage. This wine was youthful yet promising, with robust tannins and a vibrant fruit profile. It showcased the potential of the vineyard's younger vines and the skilled craftsmanship involved in its production. Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2015 vintage, the estate's second label whose production began in 1983 when Suntory took over, offered a more mature expression but with less flavour concentration compared to the grand vin. Its smooth, velvety texture was complemented by deep, dark berry flavours and a satisfying finish, demonstrating the benefits of careful aging.
Finally, we concluded with the grand vin, Château Lagrange 2010 vintage. This flagship wine was a true masterpiece, embodying the pinnacle of the estate's winemaking excellence. It had a harmonious blend of ripe fruit, refined tannins, and a hint of earthy complexity. The depth and sophistication of this wine left a lasting impression, making it a fitting end to a remarkable tasting experience.
Surprisingly, the estate’s white wine Les Fleurs du Lac caught my attention the most, and in my humble opinion, it was the best wine I tasted that day. This was particularly unexpected because, in Saint-Julien, I would expect the reds to be the best. However, it turns out that the white was exceptionally good.
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